Seville, Spain
In Seville, we stayed in the heart of the old city a few hundred feet from the cathedral, Alcazar and Judería. The streets are narrow and winding, especially in the Judería.
One day we walked from the center of the old city to the Roman wall and beyond. We saw a cross-section of Seville from the historic to the seedy to the modern.
After a long day of sight-seeing by foot, Sarah wanted to take a break to rest her feet as we passed through a plaza in a not-so-good area. She lucked out because the 'resident' of the available bench was otherwise occupied with the police.
We had taken the walk to see the Basilica de la Macarena, located in one of Seville's poorer districts just a few feet inside the wall, to see its famous statue. By the time we got there, Sarah's feet were in no condition to dance. As it was late in the day, we left the walled section of the city and took a bus back. There are two concentric bus routes, each with buses which go clockwise and buses which go anticlockwise. It was like going on a tour of modern Seville. The bus does not go into the old section, but it got us close.
While in Seville, we went to a traditional Flamenco show which was performed within the Judería in the courtyard of the pre-expulsion home of a wealthy Jewish merchant. We were told that the performers would be available for photos after the main show. We were not told that the performers would change out of their fancy Flamenco costumes: Olé! (Or, Oh S...omething else.) In the photo (left), you can see fancy foot stomping and finger snapping in plainer clothing.
There was also traditional Flamenco singing. It was in Spanish, of course, so I didn't know what the song was about. It sounded like it had something to do with killing a cat.
One day we walked from the center of the old city to the Roman wall and beyond. We saw a cross-section of Seville from the historic to the seedy to the modern. After a long day of sight-seeing by foot, Sarah wanted to take a break to rest her feet as we passed through a plaza in a not-so-good area. She lucked out because the 'resident' of the available bench was otherwise occupied with the police.
We had taken the walk to see the Basilica de la Macarena, located in one of Seville's poorer districts just a few feet inside the wall, to see its famous statue. By the time we got there, Sarah's feet were in no condition to dance. As it was late in the day, we left the walled section of the city and took a bus back. There are two concentric bus routes, each with buses which go clockwise and buses which go anticlockwise. It was like going on a tour of modern Seville. The bus does not go into the old section, but it got us close.
While in Seville, we went to a traditional Flamenco show which was performed within the Judería in the courtyard of the pre-expulsion home of a wealthy Jewish merchant. We were told that the performers would be available for photos after the main show. We were not told that the performers would change out of their fancy Flamenco costumes: Olé! (Or, Oh S...omething else.) In the photo (left), you can see fancy foot stomping and finger snapping in plainer clothing.There was also traditional Flamenco singing. It was in Spanish, of course, so I didn't know what the song was about. It sounded like it had something to do with killing a cat.
Plaza de España
This complex of government buildings is what remains of the 1928 Ibero-American Exposition to display Hispanic technology.
Remember to click on a photo to enlarge
A mosque door and the minaret were retained
Tomb of Christopher Columbus.
During the Cuban Revolution of 1902, Spain transferred Columbus' remains to Sevilla from Havana.
Remember, click the photos to enlarge.
Or click here to see better photos.
The former synagogue.
It is a great place to relax and catch some rays, but we didn't come to Sevilla to relax. We came to see history. As for rays, we got plenty of them since we did not have any rain during our month in Spain. Maybe it's because we generally stayed in cities and the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain.
The Cathedral de Sevilla
Sevilla has the world's largest (by volume) Gothic cathedral. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was a century in the building. It was begun in 1402 after the Reconquista on the site of Sevilla's main mosque. It houses the remains of Christopher Columbus and a lot of religious statues.
The Cathedral de Sevilla
Sevilla has the world's largest (by volume) Gothic cathedral. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was a century in the building. It was begun in 1402 after the Reconquista on the site of Sevilla's main mosque. It houses the remains of Christopher Columbus and a lot of religious statues.
A mosque door and the minaret were retained
Tomb of Christopher Columbus.During the Cuban Revolution of 1902, Spain transferred Columbus' remains to Sevilla from Havana.
El Alcazar
Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Alcazar of Sevilla, the Royal Palace, was rebuilt by Catholic King Pedro I (Pedro the Cruel) on the site of the original Moorish fortress/palace using workmen from Moorish Granada. Parts of the original 10th-century structure remain. It is the royal residence of Spanish King Juan Carlos when he visits Seville. It is a lot nicer than the Alcazar of Córdoba and better decorated, too. It is Moorish architecture with Gothic touches.
Remember, click the photos to enlarge.
Or click here to see better photos.
Judería
The garden wall of the Alcazar (left) marks the edge of the Jewish Quarter, Iberia's largest after Toledo. A wall such as this surrounded the Judería; the gates were locked at night. Jews were required to be inside by nightfall. The 1492 expulsion did not improve things for the residents.
Plaza de Santa Cruz in the heart of the old Jewish Quarter was the site of the main synagogue which was torn down after the expulsion and replaced by a church. Napoleon razed the church. The building in the background is the French consulate. Maybe the French wanted a better view.
Other sights of Sevilla:
Basilica de la Macarena
The church, in one of the poorer districts, is not particularly impressive. It is known for its life-like statues, particularly Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza (above), known as La Macarena.
In c.1980, La Macarena's new dress cost about $100,000.
The garden wall of the Alcazar (left) marks the edge of the Jewish Quarter, Iberia's largest after Toledo. A wall such as this surrounded the Judería; the gates were locked at night. Jews were required to be inside by nightfall. The 1492 expulsion did not improve things for the residents.
You can see why there is no public transit in the old sections of Seville
Plaza de Santa Cruz in the heart of the old Jewish Quarter was the site of the main synagogue which was torn down after the expulsion and replaced by a church. Napoleon razed the church. The building in the background is the French consulate. Maybe the French wanted a better view.Other sights of Sevilla:
A section of the Roman wall which once surrounded the city.
Basilica de la Macarena
The church, in one of the poorer districts, is not particularly impressive. It is known for its life-like statues, particularly Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza (above), known as La Macarena.
In c.1980, La Macarena's new dress cost about $100,000.
We took a day trip by train and bus from Sevilla via Jerez (the home of sherry) to Arcos de la Frontera, one of the 'pueblos blancos' (white villages) in the mountains in southern Spain. It was called "de la frontera" because it was on the border between Catholic and Moorish Spain during the battles of La Reconquista.
The old village is on a cliffside and was, for a short time, an independent Islamic fiefdom. Before the Inquisition, Arcos had a thriving Jewish community, some of whom remained as Conversos.
The old village is on a cliffside and was, for a short time, an independent Islamic fiefdom. Before the Inquisition, Arcos had a thriving Jewish community, some of whom remained as Conversos.
The former synagogue.
An ancient Roman column put
to a new use.
I didn't ride all the way to Granada standing up. This is the new surface tram which runs for less than two miles from the older section to the main street; there are about five stops. At the last stop, we took a bus to the Renfe train terminal.
Sevillanos hope to extend the tram line in time for the Olympics, whenever that may be. There is also a new underground line which runs somewhere else and has 22 stops in ten miles. Other lines are planned to open in about five years, or maybe not.
Having a backpack made the luggage easier to deal with. Of course, we could have just taken a taxi.
to a new use.
Back in Seville
Sarah discovers churros con chocolate, a popular Spanish breakfast.
The chocolate is hot and thick, like a fondue.
It's excellent for dipping.
The chocolate is hot and thick, like a fondue.
It's excellent for dipping.
We donned our backpacks and headed for Granada.
I didn't ride all the way to Granada standing up. This is the new surface tram which runs for less than two miles from the older section to the main street; there are about five stops. At the last stop, we took a bus to the Renfe train terminal.
Sevillanos hope to extend the tram line in time for the Olympics, whenever that may be. There is also a new underground line which runs somewhere else and has 22 stops in ten miles. Other lines are planned to open in about five years, or maybe not.
Having a backpack made the luggage easier to deal with. Of course, we could have just taken a taxi.
All posts about our trip:
posted by Allen and Sarah at 11:13 PM
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